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THE last time we visited the CUT-Wolfgang Puck restaurant was at the grand opening of the Four Seasons Bahrain Bay and the man himself sliced up the meat for us to savour on a night of celebration.
By the side of the celebrity chef in the kitchen was a young American who had been offered the opportunity to step up to the plate and take his vision forward.
No ‘Small’ feat but one the executive chef and his team has clearly risen up to.
I was pleasantly surprised at the buzz already being created in the restaurant last Thursday evening, one I expected would have taken more than just a few months to create.
It was a busy night and CUT had a formidable crew on board waiting the tables and providing an impressive service … but I’ll come to that later.
In the States and Dubai CUT is famed for its steaks although there’s a lot more to this restaurant than, well, me(a)ts the eye.
But the good lady wife Kathryn and I are steak lovers and the choice was impressive. The menu included prime, 28-day-aged corn-fed Nebraskan Black Angus, Australian Angus / Wagyu and Japanese pure-breed Wagyu beef.
According to Executive Chef Ben Small there are four key components to delivering a great steak. “The first element is using high quality, well-marbled chilled beef. Second component is using good wood and charcoal to cook the steak and add depth of flavour.
“Next step is seasoning the steak properly and, lastly, properly resting your steak to allow for the flavourful juices to redistribute throughout the meat.”
What to choose? Well, this is an Eating Out review and it would be rude not to give GulfWeekly readers a thorough service (I know what you’re thinking, someone has to do it).
The steaks vary in prices from BD17++ for the 280g US Sirloin, to an 170g Australian Petite Cut Filet Mignon at BD36++ and the Japanese Shinga Prefecture Wagyu Rib Eye at BD70++.
Chef Ben politely offered to let us sample some of his favourite dishes and whilst the main course was being prepared we enjoyed a couple of exquisite starters, accompanied by a rich array of warmed bread.
The Jumbo Lump Crap & Shrimp ‘Louis’ Cocktail featuring spicy tomato horseradish (BD15++) is proving the most popular in Bahrain and the Butter Lettuce, Avocado, Roquefort Blue Cheese, Cherry Tomatoes with Herb Vinaigrette (BD12++) offers a refreshing and light alternative.
One to look out for folks, a terrific truffle sauce on homemade pasta, not on the menu yet, but I guarantee it will be a contender for the most wanted dish.
We were ready for the main course. Three sirloin steaks on the plate, as part of the menu entitled Tasting of New York Sirloin (BD50++) – a great way to experience the different meat selections.
We took it one bite at a time and the initial reaction: Nebraskan (85g) – clean and tasty; the Japanese Wagyu (55g) – distinctive and full of flavour … and winner of the ‘eyes closed, bite, chew and swallow Szecowka taste test’, the Australian that puts the queen in Queensland (85g) – offering a melt-in-your-mouth momentous moment of culinary magic.
On the side we had Tempura Onion Rings, Creamed Spinach with fried organic egg and butter-braised carrots with Chermoula Yogurt and Harissa Honey.
Surprisingly, we made room for desserts after we were urged to try out Executive Pastry Chef Pierre Chambon’s latest creation, Strawberry Shortcake, shortly to be added to the menu too.
For chocolate lovers the warm Dark Chocolate Soufflé should not be missed and the Banana Cream Pie is perfection itself with Madagascar Vanilla Crème Brulèe, Caramel Sauce and Banana Sorbet (both priced BD6++).
Chef Ben said: “CUT is special because while we are a modern American-style steak restaurant our menu and concept is broad enough to cater to everyone.
“Whether you are looking for a beautifully-grilled steak, a lighter seafood option, a handmade pasta, a hearty dessert, or are looking for a more casual setting like our lounge for small bites.
“The beautiful dinning room being located in the sleek and iconic new Four Seasons Bahrain Bay building situated across the bay from downtown Manama offers panoramic views of the city skyline.
“Our philosophy is to create a dining experience in which we utilise the best quality ingredients – prepared simply and elegantly with bespoke service while maintaining a fun, creative environment.”
And now back to the service and one-word sums it up … sweet!
We probably experienced the most impressive help, advice and assistance we have ever encountered in Bahrain, and one young man in particular shone brightly.
John Musyoka, a 28-year-old from Nairobi, started at the lowest level in the hospitality industry working for a catering company in Dubai and through pure persistence, personality and hard work is climbing up the ladder.
What a find for CUT, currently described as the ‘Captain’ on the floor, I was so impressed with his service that I asked for his business card to later email him a personal note of thanks and he politely explained he didn’t have one at his level.
Don’t worry John, we predict one day you’re going to be an Admiral of the CUT. He’s one member of the staff restaurant director David Evers will no doubt be keeping a close eye on for greater glory.
A memorable night and, wow, what a team!
Executive Chef Ben Small comes from Los Angeles and obtained a Bachelors Degree in Hotel and Restaurant Management after attending The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.
Shortly after graduating he went to work with the Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group at Spago Beverly Hills.
He was appointed Sous Chef at WP24 @ the Ritz-Carlton LA Live before moving to the East Coast as the Executive Sous Chef for The Source by Wolfgang Puck in Washington DC.
After a spell of more than two years he spent several months training for this project at CUT Beverly Hills at Four Seasons Regent Beverly Wilshire Hotel before moving to Bahrain.
He said: “My passion for food and beverage started at a very young age … standing on a stool in the kitchen with my noni when I was a young boy.
“The ability to always be growing and learning while creating great flavours and experiences for others has always been very exciting and fulfilling to me.”
His favourite dish is Rotisserie Pouisson (baby chicken) with hand cut fries ‘simplicity at it’s finest’.
