Designs on success

LIFE is a hectic whirlwind of international travel, glamourous company and prestigious fashion shows for fashion designer Kubra Al Qaseer, whose innovative work has been receiving rave reviews.

But reaching the top has been a tough slog for Ms Kubra: hard work, risk, determination and a strong belief in her creative abilities have been the major factors in her success story.
In fact, Kubra began work in an entirely different environment – a bank – but soon realised her heart was not really in the work. Despite having a steady job and secure career path, she handed in her notice, opting for the more precarious position of would-be fashion designer.
The first step was to take a crash course in design, but success in the fashion world did not come instantly, or easily. Tight budgets were a problem in the early days, not to mention the sheer hard work involved in running a fledgling, one-woman business in her early twenties.
At the time women were not encouraged to set up their own business, particularly one that involved travelling alone considering the cultural traditions.
Despite her humble background and limited resources, she rose to become one of the most successful fashion designers in the Middle East.
Ms Kubra, 45, who hails from a family of eight brothers and three sisters, initially did design sketches at home and gave the sewing work to neighbourhood tailors.
The next stage was to open a small shop called Al Saafa in East Riffa with a couple of staff. Clients liked what they saw, put in repeat orders and began to tell their friends about this emerging young designer.
The flourishing business allowed her to open her own garment factory, while continuing to expand the retail side; currently, she owns four shops in Bahrain and has 42 staff on the books.
Branches of her Al Saafa boutiques and stores can also be found in Bahrain’s Seef Mall and across the region – in Khobar, Riyadh and Jeddah, soon to be joined by outlets in Kuwait and Dubai.
She now has 15 branches of fashion houses, five in Saudi Arabia, two in Dubai, one in Abu-Dhabi, three in Kuwait, one in Doha, a new franchise opened in Libya two months ago and there are plans to open another in Muscat soon.
A traditionalist at heart and inspired by Arabian and Western influences, Ms Kubra uses conventional methods and designs, with a trademark touch of flamboyance and modernity.
Her interpretation of traditional jalabiyas (Arabian traditional dresses) and wedding gowns has transformed basic garments into trendy and sophisticated, high-fashion statements.
“One of my jalabiya designs is a clear example of influences from several different cultures in one single piece,” she says.
“The jalabiya has long sleeves representing the traditional style of Bahrain, embroidered Japanese script on the front and Iranian calligraphy on the side and bottom using Indian fabric.
“Fashion designers should be artistic and creative and should be able to express their ideas in sketches. They combine practical knowledge with artistic ability to turn their abstract ideas into formal designs.
“They don’t have to be brilliant artists, but must be able to combine colours, shades and tones. They need to have the visual imagination, flair for creating with fabric, and the ability to think in three dimensions in order to translate their ideas into sketches and then into the finished garment.”
Ms Kubra is now a name that is firmly established on the fashion circuit, not only in the Arab world of haute couture, but also internationally.
Ms Kubra’s trip to Paris early last year was a great success, with her work shown alongside heavyweight international names such as John Paul Gaultier and Chanel. In the City of Light, the designer presented her Ramadan collection, highlighting Arabic calligraphy with silver accessories, a collection described as “conservative yet stylish.”
She also held a show in Sloane Street, London last August.
“It was a very spontaneous, last-minute show as it was originally meant to be staged in Beirut, Lebanon, but due to the trouble in the country at the time, the show was moved to London. It was open to the public and they absolutely loved the variety of colours.”
Her most recent shows were held in Al Ain, Abu Dhabi and at the Dubai World Trade Centre last month and there are plans to hold international shows in Paris and Marrakesh, in July and Geneva in October.
Despite expanding rapidly, the Bahraini still designs and produces her clothes, right from the initial sketches through to the finished garments.
The work is a fusion of tradition and high fashion, adding bright colours and harmonising patterns using a mixture of silk brocades and threads, high-quality crystals, beads, sequins and embroidery on soft fabrics including silk, chiffon and taffetas.
Prices for these distinctive and in-demand creations range from $540 (BD207) for a simple dress to up to $10,000 (BD3,770) for an elaborate wedding dress or special-occasion outfit. Jalabiyas with the trademark design Kubra touch, start from $162 (BD61) and go all the way up to $2,700 (BD1,000).
Inspiration for the outfits comes from the subtle colours of nature, such as the ocean or the desert, or other landscapes observed on Ms Kubra’s regular travels overseas.
This year’s colours are gold and silver and anything bright, she says. “My profession doesn’t stop at designing,” she added. “It involves a lot more, from designing to cutting, sewing the pieces together and, finally selling to the customer.
“It is not just about having the ideas but also having the technical ability to transform the ideas into a finished product that people want to buy. My earlier background in banking has actually been a great help in running my own business.
“For a career in fashion designing, one needs to be fashion conscious, as well as being fully aware of the market requirements.
“An understanding of the market and customer lifestyle is essential so that the designs are suitable for the people they are made for. Designers also need to be good communicators and very clear with their ideas which are then later reflected in the presentation at fashion shows.”
Her work makes regular appearances at glittering events often with an audience of royals and celebrities.
The Kubra Winter Collection, recently unveiled in Beirut, featured more than 24 designs in velvet, including evening wear, Arabic wedding theme dresses and garments that can be worn during traditional Arabic henna ceremonies.
Back home in Bahrain the dazzling success of Ms Kubra, the mother of three sons – Ahmed (20) and Mohammed (21) – who are both studying business management at university, and Raed (24) who works for a Bahrain bank – has proved to be an inspiration for other would-be career women.
“The fashion design profession has lately emerged as one of the most sought after careers, especially among young Bahraini girls who are particularly interested in jewellery design and fashion,” says Ms Kubra, who holds an annual show in Bahrain.
“These young people have their own creative style of dressing and believe in setting their own trend rather than following one set by others. I wouldn’t mind encouraging other Bahraini girls to choose this career but they have to be prepared to face the hurdles involved and work really hard to achieve success.
“A career in fashion design is exciting and can involve meeting glamourous people and interacting with the rich and famous. Fashion is identified today with status and social acceptance.
“The outfit you decide to wear speaks volumes about your personality and character.”