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VISITORS from across the Gulf region have been flocking to one of the most popular tailors in the kingdom to be fitted for traditional attire in time for the Eid celebrations, writes Jalal Muradi.
Orders have to be placed at least six weeks in advance at Abna Al-Wattan Tailoring to meet the deadline and shoppers have had to be turned away in recent days because the order book is full.
Ramadan is the busiest month in the calendar as men often request for three special thobes to be cut, designed and delivered, one for each day of Eid.
The materials used for summer orders are lighter fabrics and for winter sometimes a heavier wool or polyester is chosen, depending on each customer’s preference …and the local choices are often challenging.
Owner Abdulrahman Sadique said: “Bahrain is very multicultural and our thobe is eclectic with which takes on various designs from all over, somewhat like a fruit cocktail!”
After measuring, material swatches are shown to the client to choose the shade and variation before the material cuts are made.
The team of busy tailors behind the scenes then sew the pieces together and complete the outfits with collars, adding embroidery if requested, before pressing.
The business started 40 years ago in a small shop in the souk by Abdulrahman’s father, Abdulla, and has now expanded into three locations, two in Gudaibiya and one on Exhibitions Avenue in Hoora offering professional thobe design, plus ghuttra and agal selections.
Traditionally, the Emiratis and Omanis wrap the ghuttra into a turban, whereas the Bahrainis, Saudis, Kuwaitis and Qataris wear it loosely draped around the back and shoulders.
It is almost always of white cotton but many have a checkered pattern in red, stitched into them, which is most desired in Bahrain and is made of a thicker cloth called a shemagh.
The plain white is more popular in the Gulf States of Saudi Arabia, the Emirates and Qatar. A taqiyah (skull cap) is sometimes worn underneath it to help keep it in place along with a circlet of rope called an agal.
Local customers know what to expect when they walk into the store and are familiar with the fitting process. There is a hanging rack with various colours and cuts to choose from that reflect both the traditional and cultural tastes from all over the GCC.
Experienced tailors are on hand to take the correct measurements once the design is selected. In the past the thobe was worn wider but now a more tailored look in a ‘slim fit’ or ‘straight’ cut is popular, with a canvass used on the collar, button-down and sometimes the sleeves.
The younger generation tends to focus more on detailed design and embroidery has been introduced for thobes worn at weddings and other special occasions. Oriental-style collars have also become very popular and will vary depending on the region.
The inside of the Hoora shop is fashioned like a traditional souk with wooden shelving filled with traditional objects such as dows and local pottery pieces. There is also a bench area with comfortable seating for waiting guests
Abdulrahman added: “My father used to measure people outside the building as it was so small and had to cut the fabric at his home on the table. Thanks to his success during the 1980s he was able to open another store in Gudaibaya but there was no light on that road and few believed we would succeed outside of the souk.”
The family proved the doubters wrong. In 2001, after Abdulrahman successfully completed his studies and gained qualifications in business and finance from the UK, he decided to help develop the business and expand with the Exhibitions Avenue operation.
“It’s amazing and although we continually attract new customers from far and wide we still have many local customers. In fact, we are now serving three generations of some families. Those loyal customers that once came to the souk are now bringing along their grandsons!” he said.
Jalal’s pick: I chose an off-white thobe with a slight sheen in a Japanese lightweight material. It is custom fit with elaborate embroidery on both the chest and the cuffs. This will be perfect for Eid and other special occasions.
