The heart of Africa

This May I finally had the chance to return home to Kenya...leaving the growing heat of Bahrain, and work, behind for a few weeks for a brief (isn’t it always?) respite.

This East African country is not only the gateway into East Africa but also comparatively a stable, progressive republic with a breathtaking variety of landscapes and holiday options. There is something truly captivating about Africa that only be experienced in person...and one way to do this is to go on a cross-country safari!
Having moved to Kenya with my family almost 16 years ago, I’ve lived in the three main cities — Nairobi, the dynamic capital, Mombasa, the major port city and costal holiday destination...and most recently in Kisumu, that was proclaimed a ‘city’ just a few years ago and is located on the shores of Lake Victoria. We set out for our ‘safari’ (which literally means ‘travel’ or a ‘journey’ in Swahili, the local language) from the sleepy little hollow of Kisumu to the world-renowned game reserve of Maasai Mara, in our trusty (but ageing) Land Rover Discovery...a perfect blend of comfort and horsepower for the roads (and lack of) ahead.
The Maasai Mara is named after the Maasai tribe, who traditionally inhabit the area and is famous for its diverse, abundant game and ‘The Great Migration’ where an immense number of wildebeest annually migrate to and from greener pastures. The quaint little resort that we stayed at was based right next to the Mara river and featured individual tents with all the traditional amenities of a hotel room plus something that’s a little harder to find...a great view of half-submerged hippos slumbering in the sun.
Our game drive in the afternoon took our caravan of 4X4’s along, over and through paths not oft seen by humans...to the choicest views of game in their natural habitat. In addition to the usual excess of zebra, ostriches, giraffes, antelopes, elephants, wild buffalos and monkeys, the Mara Reserve is also boasts a large lion population. Our roller-coaster quest finally ended upon a pride of lions, complete with lionesses and cubs...and as our stomachs finally settled, we all watched jungle royalty frolic and bask in all their wild splendour. Spotting big cats on a game drive is always a sign of success...and we returned to the resort to settle down for the night, rattled to the bone by the rough trails but nonetheless elated.
The next stop on our safari was Nairobi, founded in 1899 by the British as a supply depot for the Uganda Railway, was named after a water hole the Maasai called “Ewaso Nyirobi” (Cool Waters). And “Cool” is an appropriate word to describe Nairobi, both for its pleasant weather and looks. The last century has seen the city grow to a cosmopolitan base for business and politics. The plethora of malls, restaurants and leisure venues promise to keep you occupied and entertained.
After a good night’s rest we forged on to the Aberdare National Park, where the famous Tree Tops Hotel is located. The hotel offers a superb view of game during the day (and at night by spotlights) and is essentially a glorified watch-tower built upon tree trunks and near watering holes. The hotel gained worldwide recognition through Jim Corbett’s story “Treetops” and due to the fact that Princess Elizabeth spent the night there on February 5, 1952 and awoke the next morning a Queen (during the night, her father George VI passed away). The hotel also features a naturalist, ever full of interesting facts and stories — observing the elephants, and other animals at such close range can be quite an experience, especially when one spots the unmistakable social behaviour of these animals.
Leaving behind the Aberdares, we headed towards Mount Kenya and the river Naro Moru for a couple of days of complete R&R. The river has various resorts located on its banks and the town of Naro Moru is a popular base for climbers hoping to scale the second-highest mountain in Africa. The resort we chose offered cozy cottages, complete with kitchen and fireplaces and located right on the banks of the river. This offered a perfect base for short excursions to surrounding areas, which include cultural and historical spots and a unique restaurant built in a tree that offers fresh, farm-cultivated trout.
Our trip almost at an end, we headed west, back to Lake Victoria, passing the spectacular Thomson falls on the way. The rains had just set in after a long drought and the landscapes were practically gushing with green. We also passed the Equator a few times during the safari and witnessed eager tour guides as they demonstrated (often for a charge) how water swirled in different directions on both sides of this imaginary line to excited (and sadly clueless) tourists. When headed west, one also crosses the town of Kericho, which is the centre of Kenya’s large tea industry and offers inspiring views of endless green tea fields.
This week-long safari was just what the doctor recommended...Kenya, and indeed Africa, has the ability to pull you into its mystery and raw, untouched beauty, as do the people, who are unassuming and welcoming. From the virgin white sands of Mombasa and Malindi to the game parks scattered across the country...the massive Rift Valley running through the country and the desert in the north...the lakes thriving with flamingoes to arid salt lakes...the country has truly something for every taste and inclination.
For now though, it’s back to good old Bahrain...till the NEXT Safari.
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Kenya facts
Location: East Africa
Capital: Nairobi
Politics: Republic, ex-British colony, gained Independence in 1963
Language: English and Swahili
Currency: Kenyan Shilling (KES)
Area: 582,560 sq.km
Population: 34,256,000 (July 2005 est)
Time Zone: GMT + 3
National Airline: Kenya Airways
Kenya Tourism Board: https://www.magicalkenya.com/ - visit the website for all the information you need on Kenya and planning your trip.

Maasai Mara facts
Size: 1,672 sq km
Province: Rift Valley
District: Narok
Geographical Location: South-Western Kenya bordering Serengeti National Park, on the Tanzania border.
Altitude: 1,500-2,170m
Vegetation: Open grasslands with patches of acacia woodland, thickets, and riverine forests.
Fauna: In the dry season (July-October) the reserve is a major concentration area of migratory herbivores including approximately 250,000 zebra and 1.3 million wildebeest. There are also gazelle, elephant, topi, buffalo, lion (Kenya’s largest population), black rhino, hippo, hyena, giraffe, leopard, and mongoose.
Bird Life: Prolific, including 53 birds of prey.
Visitor Facilities: Several lodges and campsites.

Jitendra Jain