Rolling out the Persian carpet

Iran may not currently be the first place one would consider as a holiday destination but for the culturally-starved and nature enthusiasts it certainly offers a cauldron of dazzling delights and stunning sights.

Iran is a country that has endured changes at the hands of Mongols, Arabs, Turkish Ottoman, Portuguese, and Dutch but has never lost its place on the map as the Great Ancient Persian Empire.
But this potential jewel of the Middle East famed for its natural beauty, architectural grandeur, romantic gardens and unfailing hospitality is undergoing a crisis that is threatening to bring its tourism industry to its knees.
Mr Mohammad Kermani, director of Iran’s federation of travel agents, while talking to an Iranian newspaper Etemad-e-Milli, said: “What is happening today to Iran’s tourist industry is not a few days or a few months damage and we must acknowledge that foreign tourists have cancelled all their tours until 2009.
“Fears of coming here were reinforced by the recent standoff between London and Tehran involving naval personnel. It indicates a crisis in Iran’s tourism industry and it is inflicting irreparable damage.”
The deputy head of Iran’s tourism and cultural heritage organisation, Mohammad Sharif Malekzadeh, however, denied that there had been wholesale cancellations. But Taghi Aghaei, owner of Ziggurat Tour and Travel Company that was responsible for bringing in the first US tourists to Iran after the revolution said that the nuclear dispute and President Ahmadinejad’s rhetoric had reversed the recovery from the post 9/11 slump.
The decline in the tourism industry is an embarrassment to the government which last year offered travel agents BD7.4 for every European and American tourist they brought to Iran and BD3.7 for tourists from elsewhere.
About 2.5 million people in Iran depend on tourism for their bread and butter. One of Tehran’s leading travel agents recently laid off 70 workers due to the fallout. Does this mean that spectacular Persian treasures will largely be unseen by foreign eyes?
Iran has a huge potential for tourism. According to World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC), Iran’s Islamic Republic News Agency (Irna) predicted a growth in tourism by 6.6 per cent from 2006-2015, topping the list of Middle East countries but the present political scenario has proved to be a setback to the forecast figures.
Iran’s tourism industry witnessed an unprecedented 20 per cent boom during Mohammad Khatami’s presidency which is no wonder considering that Iran boasts of a unique landscape.
“If you travel 180km from Tehran which is located at the foot of the Al Bourz Mountains you can see the entire geography change from a vast desert, to towering mountains and the seaside.
“In November, the forests are ablaze with the vibrant colours of the fall. In just a matter of four hours you can see a change of three seasons. I have travelled to 63 countries and rarely have I seen such a variety in seasons and geography on such a grand scale,” says Kamran Chassebi, an Iranian executive living and working in Bahrain.
Kamran, his wife Lili and their two boys look forward to their bi-annual trips to Tehran to visit friends and family and say that their country with its rich civilisation and history has a lot to offer.
 “Skiing is a must-do activity in winter as we have one of the best slopes in Sham Shak and Dizin at the Al Bourz Mountains. During summer we indulge in nature and go for hikes, fishing and water-skiing. And all of this is available around Tehran so we actually don’t have to travel so far out to enjoy a variety of outdoor activity which is lacking here,” comments Lili as the Iranian countryside is one of her favourite holiday destinations.
Lili and Kamran talk about Darakeh, a picnic spot situated in north of Tehran where Iranians traditionally roll out their rugs by the winding river and spend a leisurely day hiking or sampling fresh juices from the innumerable juice bars. In fact this is the place where this chic Iranian couple met.
Their fondest memories are of the north of Tehran where they spent their honeymoon. From the Ghachsar Hotel with an old Iranian charm to caves, fresh water springs and wild walnut and pomegranate trees in the mountains to the Grand Bazaar in the heart of Tehran which is the largest in the world, Iran has it all.
According to Kamran: “The Grand bazaar is 10km by 5km and is like a maze. One could walk in it for days and turn into a new shop stocked with beautiful Persian carpets, clothes, handicrafts.”
The vast majority of Iranians are not slogan-chanting frightening people as is commonly portrayed in some parts of the media but rather softly-spoken, exuding traditional Persian charm.
They are warm and welcoming. Farida Khan, a Pakistani recounts her experience of Mashad, the holiest city of Iran situated in the north east of the country of the country.
“I was surprised at the speedy clearance at the immigration desk all run by polite chador-clad women speaking perfect English. The city of Mashad is built around the shrine of Imam Reza that has 14 gates leading to various parts of the city.
“During my pilgrimage I met a lot of visitors from around the Middle East who come in plane loads to Mashad. What surprised me was the number of young women and girls working in different jobs. Dressed in jeans, well-fitted coats and scarves they were always very polite and helpful. In fact many a times I walked back alone from the shrine to my hotel at night and never did I feel unsafe.”
George Collins, a commercial diver living in Bahrain narrates how he was absolutely bowled over by the hospitality of the Iranian people when he travelled there in 2002. “I went to Shiraz and Isfahan and everywhere people stopped to chit chat. The conversation would normally extend to an invitation to their house for a cup of the fragrant tea.
“The people were very friendly and curious and being a Westerner I did not experience any anti-West feelings or unnecessary hassles. Iran is probably one of the few places that I wouldn’t mind living indefinitely,” he says fondly.
Mostafa Pajouyan, a young IT executive living in Bahrain remembers his childhood in Iran. “We often rented a chalet at the Caspian Sea and spend the weekend there. Swimming and running on the beach was second nature for me and my older brother,” he says.
Although Mostafa, his brother Amir and his parents moved to Europe the year after the revolution they regularly visit their homeland. “Shiraz is the land of my grandfather and since Iran is the land of roses then Shiraz is the city of roses. It is a very romantic city and the hometown of great Persian poets like Hafiz-e-Shirazi and Sa’adi. But Isfahan remains my favourite city because of its magnificence and culture,” comments Mostafa.
Isfahan is one of the oldest cities of Iran. It was at the crossroads of international trade and diplomacy.
North West of Shiraz are the remains of Persepolis, the grand ceremonial capital built by Darius I and his successors some 2,500 years ago.
In every corner of Iran there are enduring relics of a glorious imperial past from the vibrant museums in Tehran to the romantic settings of Shiraz and further south.
So perhaps GulfWeekly readers will be able to put aside the images they have watched on the TV news and find out for themselves the real face of Iran.