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AS World Cup fever gripped the Ritz-Carlton Bahrain Hotel & Spa’s big screen arena, there was just as much excitement in the kitchen as Plums’ latest recruit dazzled his teammates with a sizzling display of culinary prowess.
As soccer superstar Neymar was notching a brace for Brazil during the host country’s thrilling opening 3-1 win over Croatia his cooking equivalent from France, Yann Bernard Lejard, was performing miracles amid the pots and pans.
A fellow chef whispered ‘he’s an artist’ in my ear as I captured a kitchen team shot with my camera. Although I’m no expert on modern art, I can appreciate the description having witnessed the presentation of his work.
As for the taste of all nine courses Kathryn and I sampled, the experience can best be described as poetry on a plate.
The new boy in town, who was snatched in an end-of-season transfer swoop from a top family in Saudi Arabia, only arrived three weeks ago and offered to display his talents as a tease of things to come for distinguished diners in Bahrain.
Born in Paris and holding a degree in cooking from the tender age of 16, Chef Yann has worked in many Michelin star restaurants and leading hotels around the world.
He worked in more than 10 countries believing that he could only become truly experienced if he challenged himself by starting all over again in different places.
Through his travels he learned all about local products and the varied techniques necessary to bring out the best flavours and taste combinations.
However, disaster struck when a crippling knee condition meant he had to give up life in the kitchen and go under the surgeon’s knife. For a time he turned his back on the hospitality industry, gained a bachelor’s degree in management and took up a career as a cost controller.
But life behind a desk in a corporate office was not for him and, once fully recovered, he decided to return to the kitchen.
“It’s all about the passion,” said Chef Yann, 38. “I enjoy creating contemporary modern cuisine using all the knowledge I have picked up from my travels around the world and the people I have met and worked with.
“My philosophy is to make the best out of each and every ingredient no matter whether it is the simplest or the most expensive.”
We started simple, with a tease of the taste-buds in the form of a broccoli cream soup with a hint of ginger served in a double espresso-sized cup and saucer, which left an afterglow on the palate and a hunger for more.
A cold potato soup with a sizable chunk of lobster and cavier followed, another taste teaser with lip-smacking consequences.
A warming crispy shrimp in a coriander sauce adequately filled the craving and the waiter tipped me off that the crunchy strings were in fact fried leeks.
By this time Plums was buzzing. The venue manages to be formal and informal at the same time, with tables and chairs alongside comfy sofas, warming colours and trendy artwork.
There were groups of business people, couples, families, expats and young people chatting and eating.
Next to be served was one of my favourite dishes of the night; a poached egg in a fluffy white truffle sauce with mushrooms. Chef Yann pinched a bit of salt on top for an added touch of genius.
Grilled chicken came next with mashed potato truffle accompanied with a white chive and onion sauce. It produced a moan of ecstasy as Kathryn cooed ‘how do you cook chicken like that?’.
Obviously not the way you do, darling, but I wasn’t brave enough to suggest it at the table and, besides, Kathryn tells me that she never reads my reviews, so I should be safe enough now.
The chef was on-hand again with a hot pan of sauce to ensure we didn’t run out of his special concoction although the meat was so soft and succulent it would have slipped down the throat unaided.
Our Indonesian waitress called Lies (pronounced Lisa) offered us a selection of steak knives for the second main course – a house special of Wagyu beef – grilled to perfection, cut into three strips with a sauce, alongside a trio of salts to add to the taste if required.
The sweet dishes (yes, there were two of those too) consisted of a red fruit syrup with banana ice-cream and white chocolate with a little crisp biscuit followed by a chocolate fondue, with citrus sauce and vanilla ice-cream. I liked them both.
Once Chef Yann has settled in and his wife Caroline and four-and-a-half-year-old son, Adrien Leonard have joined him in Bahrain after the summer holidays, there are plans to set up a viewing kitchen in Plums to allow diners to watch the master at work.
We want a front row seat please.
