Cut above the rest

By Camille Jones

camille.jones@gulfweekly.com

What suits one man may not necessarily suit another. It takes all shapes and sizes and the fit is all important for the perfect look.

Hilton Made to Measure bespoke tailoring measures up to the task by designing attire from blank canvass to final product taking on-board individual tastes and using their skills to produce the perfect fitted suit.  Its store in Juffair, off American Alley, is the epitome of European refinement with crafted wooden shelving and Victorian lighting.

There is a separate room for measuring, cutting and a quaint consultation area for colour selection. George P D’Souza, director of Hilton said: “We wanted to offer a one-stop-shop for everything a man may need to go with his suit.

We also sell ties, pocket squares, socks, high-end quality shoes, belts, cuff links and a whole ready to wear collection.” During our discussion, in walked Lieutenant James Patterson of the US Navy, who was hoping to pick up a smart suit for his homecoming. Minnesota-bound James said the outlet had been recommended by a friend and his base buddies all had a soft spot for the service offered.

“The tailoring in the US is just so much more expensive,” he explained. “I’m heading home to start law school and this is the perfect opportunity to get a nice suit made. It would cost me three times as much back home!” Store consultants were on hand and the fitting process could proceed straight away.

However, here are some useful tips if you are in the market for a new shiny suit too:

• Step 1: Pick fabric from various wool blends on swatches provided. The higher the wool percentage the better.   
  Step 2: Pick the lining which comes in three choices, namely, full canvass, fusion or standard. The full canvass (interior lining) technique takes 30-36 hours, often used by the finest designers in London’s Savile Row, known principally for its traditional bespoke tailoring for men.
  No glue is used to adhere the lining and all the detailing is stitched by hand.  Glue, the expert tailor tells me, tends to bubble after multiple dry cleanings and can make the suit look tattered. This extra time and care (it can take three weeks) will hang better and look fabulous
  forever. If a ‘fusion’ lining is used then it is both glued and stitched and may prove a bit stiff as it hangs. This eventual bubbling will happen with any fused suit as the glue slowly disappears.
• Step 3: Pick thread colour for the button holes. The consultant suggested picking out a different colour for the top button on the cuff.
• Step 4: Pick out the buttons. The buttons used here are from Italy and are made from Corozo nut so they are very strong and durable. Plastic eventually leaves white around the suit button holes after washing. Real animal horn and ‘Mother of Pearl’ are also available alternatives.
• Step 5: Take the measurements. The tailor will watch the clients posture and ask how fitted he wants the trousers to be. Some men prefer it more fitted around the rear and the legs than others.
• Step 6: Cut the fabric from all the measurements for a perfect fit.
• Step 7: Fittings. During the first fitting the customer tries on the suit half constructed in order to see how it falls and fits his body type. A lot can still be changed at this point such as the shoulders and sleeve lengthening. If happy then the second fitting may need only small modifications.

After going through the ‘Hilton’ suit experience, the lucky Lieutenant said: “The space, location and everything was more than I expected. All the details from start to finish were smooth, seamless and fun. It was great to run into Gulf Weekly....that was the most fun!”

The first Hilton store was founded in 1969 by George’s father, master tailor Joseph D’Souza, and the operation continues to expand. George explained: “Hilton Bespoke started back in 2011 in Zinj and offered a complete customised experience using fabrics which before that time were not available in Bahrain.

I opened‘Made to Measure’ Hilton Juffair outlet in May which aims to offer everything a man will need for his suit … from A-Z.”