Eating Out

A taste of the year to come

December 27 - January 2
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Gulf Weekly A taste of the year to come

Gulf Weekly Kristian Harrison
By Kristian Harrison

Although Santa magically found his way down our villa’s non-existent chimney on Monday and delivered some fine gifts; I received the best present of all earlier in the week; an invitation to the Four Seasons Bahrain Bay to sample its New Year’s Eve set menu.

This year, both of legendary chef Wolfgang Puck’s restaurants at the luxury location, CUT and re Asian Cuisine, are presenting set menus alongside the traditional a la carte offerings. 

It was certainly my lucky day as I was given the chance to sample items from both establishments; and whilst it’s impossible to pick a winner, I do know that either choice would be the perfect way to ring in the New Year with a culinary extravaganza for the senses!

On a fine winter’s day, which really wasn’t wintry at all with the temperature hovering in the early 20s and a blue sky stretching as far as the eye could see, I was sat down with grand views of Bahrain’s skyline in front of me.

My favourite kitchen wizard on the island, Executive Chef Brian Becher, greeted me warmly and thrust the menu into my hands, which already had me salivating before the first course landed on my table.

When it did, however, it was gone in a flash. Whilst Bone Marrow Flan might seem a peculiarity, this succulent treat tasted far from it when smeared on toast alongside mushroom marmalade and parsley-shallot salad.

Next, it was time for some Asian cuisine and the Tasting of Dim Sum, which included selections of Chicken ‘Dan Dan’, Shrimp & Lobster Spring Roll, Crispy Duck Dumpling, Wagyu Pot Sticker.

My favourite by far was the dumpling; a crunchy ball of heaven containing one of my favourite meats. How Chef Brian and his team packed so much flavour into such a small space is a secret only they can divulge; but I’d have been happy eating just those all day! The wagyu also had a flavourful punch, whilst the Dan Dan had an authentic street food vibe to it.

Seafood is usually bottom of the list when it comes to choices, but there was no way I was going to let a single bite go to waste, so I tried the spring roll and found it surprisingly light, especially when dipped in an accompanying sauce made from, honey, vinegar and ten spices.

Similarly, the Crispy Fried Diver Scallops complete with Chinese Broccoli and Hot & Sour Winter Squash had a fulsome flavour. However, they were quickly put aside so I could scoff what was easily the dish of the day: the Pan Seared Duck Breast!

I could fill every column inch on this page just talking about this delight, with its Parsnip Puree, Soy-Glazed Brussel Sprouts and Blood Orange garnish. Whether it was the melt-in-the-mouth texture, the simply incredible taste that seemed to hit every taste bud at once and evoke a different sensation in each … this is worth the entry alone!

Moving back to the CUT side of things, Slow Cooked Shank of Dorset Lamb with Herbed Polenta and Gremolata immediately caught my eye has an unashamed carnivore.

The lamb was wonderful and slid off the bone as it should, and was complemented perfectly by the polenta, a peculiarity which my brain still processes as mashed potato but my taste buds decide is something else!

The final main course was the Seared Blue Fin Tuna with Truffle Cannellini Puree, Arugula and Mediterranean Jus. Tuna is one of the few fish I heartily enjoy eating, so I tucked into this with glee and enjoyed every bite.

Unfortunately, I was far too full to tuck into any of the desserts on the set menu, but those who plump for re Asian Cuisine will be able to try Roasted Nishi Pear Cake and Chocolate Matcha Tea Fondant, whilst those at CUT have the choice of Citrus Vacherin or Runny Chocolate Tart.

Afterwards, I caught a word with Chef Brian, where he discussed his ideas behind what promises to be a fantastic evening.

He explained: “After last year, we learned that people don’t want to be forced to do anything. So we’re offering a la carte in addition to the set menu, so people can choose their own experience as opposed to having one package.

“We have two very different experiences, not just in terms of the food but the atmosphere of the restaurant. We came up with a plan in the middle of the summer, then refined it in terms of availability and our own inspiration, and we can’t wait for our guests to taste the fruits of our efforts.”

The New Year’s Eve set menu is BD45++, and will feature live entertainment. For reservations, call 17115044.

 

 







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