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THERE are a few occasions in this profession where you can sit, look out at a stunning view and have a moment of clarity about how lucky you are to be a part of something.
Thursday evening at the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay was one of those times, as a pop-up version of celebrity Chef Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago restaurant came into town.
Yours truly was invited to the one-off event, which brought a true taste of Beverly Hills to the kingdom at the celebrated CUT by Wolfgang Puck restaurant.
No stone was left unturned. From the small details such as uniforms, cutlery and branding to the arrival of two Michelin-starred Chef Tetsu Yahigi from Los Angeles to oversee proceedings, this was a night to remember.
Chef Tetsu joined award-winning Executive Chef Brian Becher on an island-wide tour encompassing local farms, markets and fisheries to ensure that only the very best local ingredients were used in the dishes, keeping in line with Spago’s tradition.
It proved to be a roaring success across nine courses, each one more sensational than the last.
First up were the appetisers, headlined by the Maple Syrup Macaroon with Peninsula Farm’s Goat, Egg Jam and & Coffee. A peculiar mix one might think at first, but this mighty mouthful hit every corner of the palate as it melted on the tongue.
The Miso Tartlet with Cuttlefish, Cucumber and Smoked Eggplant was a feast for the senses and the Fried Sesame Ball stuffed with Thai Coconut Curried Crab truly emphasised Chef Tetsu’s Asian influences.
Each course was accompanied by a carefully selected beverage which was delivered by assistant restaurant manager Yussouf Kiamil. This knowledgeable star from Istanbul deserves a special mention for his impeccable service throughout the evening.
It’s clear he had done his homework as he recited the ingredients and background of each dish and drink … and to do this over nine courses and five hours for more than a hundred guests is worthy of the highest praise. Bravo!
After stepping outside on to the balcony to take in the views of the kingdom’s night-time skyline and Bahrain Bay, including the new beach which has been built at the hotel, guests were called back in for the first of the main courses.
Now, I am far from a seafood fan, but I made a promise that for one night only, I would at least try everything that was put in front of me. With so much love, care and attention put into each dish, it would be frankly rude not to!
So it was with some trepidation I tried the Beluga Caviar with Cauliflower Hummus and Black Lemon Blini, but I immediately had no regrets as the assortment of flavours assaulted the senses to satisfying effect.
The Sashimi of Red Snapper and the Charred Octopus served in a Coconut Water Ceviche continued with the seafood theme. They didn’t make a believer out of me, but I made sure I gave them a chance!
Much more up my alley was the Goat Ricotta Gnocchi with Dates, Pistachio and Wild Mushrooms. Wow! This was incredible, a truly delicious concoction with perfect texture and a touch of sweetness.
One final surprise from the sea came in the shape of flaky and flavoursome Steamed Wild Black Sea Bass with Wasabi and Edamame. But it was the Bahraini Lamb Grilled Rack and Glazed Shank that stole the show.
Meat, specifically lamb, is best when it falls off the bone, and that’s exactly what it did here. It was even lent an extra special kick from the Mahyawa dressing, so good that I wished I could have had a further nine courses of this dish alone!
After taking some time to let the food settle and having a chat with the two culinary wizards, it was time for my just desserts before the melancholy drive home.
Sweetening the taste buds was a White Chocolate Goat Cheese with Gooseberries, creamy to perfection, before the final pièce de résistance, the Roasted Cacao Nib with Whipped Ganache and Sour Cherry.
This crispy delight packed so much flavour into its small frame that I was convinced there was some magic involved! I doff my cap to both Chef Tetsu and Chef Brian for bringing this wonderful concept to life with such aplomb … and I’m already eagerly anticipating its triumphant return!
